Mr. Fox

Hi everyone,

I could not resist this pattern. It is an easy to follow pattern designed by Krissie dolls. You can find the pater over HERE. The pattern is in Dutch but perhaps she will translate it as she did with other patterns.

I used two strands of sockwool to achieve this result. The eventual doll will be +/- 50 cm's from top to toes.

A lovely toy to give away as a B-day present or to keep as you will fall in love with it instantly.

The amazing Mr. Fox

Flower Power Stoolcover

In search of some felt tip pens for my kids, I went to our local "dollar store", in Holland it is called "Action". It is one of those shops I never walk out empty handed. As always.... I bought more items than I needed. 

Felt tips, big candles, plasic container and!!... a cute stool.

As soon as I laid my eyes on it I thought about the option to give it a personal crochet touch.

It is such an easy project and so much fun to make. 

In this blogpost I give you some basic instructions. If you make one yourself, you need to alter your crochet work to fit your own stool. That might mean you have to add or loose a row (or more).
The number of rows you have to crochet depends on:

• size of the seat of your stool
• thickness of your yarn
• crochet stitches you use for your seatcover

Since all of these points are up to you, please read this tutorial as a general instruction. Use your own creativity to finish your crochet stoolcover.

For my crochet stoolcover I used:

• 6mm crochet needle
• Lana Grossa Mc Wool - cotton mix 80

I write my tutorial using US crochet terms.

Stitches used:

SC: single crochet

DC: double crochet

Sl st: slip stitch

CH: chain

Instruction DC Clusterstitch:

* YO, insert hook in stitch, YO, pull up loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook (do not finish DC), YO, start next DC the same way (YO, insert hook in same stitch, YO, pull up loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook) *, now finish your DC cluster by, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

Depending on how many DC's you need in your cluster, repeat between * *

General tips:

1. Check the tension of your rounds while you are working. When you think they become too tight, start your round again but add a chain (extra) in between you stitches. This doesn't effect the outcome of your work. In the next round you will cover those extra chains with a stitch.

2. Use any granny stitch you like! Let your creative mind go. Just keep in mind you need to add extra stitches in every new round to make the circle grow.

3. End every row by using a Slip stitch in the first stitch or chain-space of the round. 

4. Change of colour can be done after your slip stitch to end the round OR finish off every round and add a new colour in any stitch.

5. The first DC of any round can be done by using a Chainless Starting DC

5. Don't worry if your circle isn't 100% flat. It will stretch when you fasten it on the seat. Or! you can always block it.

6. Keep adding rounds untill you reach the edge of your stoolseat. At that point you will no longer add extra stitches. Just SC around untill you can cover the edge.

Stitches used in my pattern:

1) 8 SC in Magic Ring                                         (8)

( for this and every row following > sl st in 1st SC, CH1 )

2) 2 SC in every stitch                                         (16)

3) 2DC cluster in every SC                                 (16 clusters)

4) [SC, CH] in every DC cluster                        (16 sc plus 16 spaces)

5) [3DC cluster, CH2] in every chain space       (16 clusters plus 16 spaces)

  

6) [SC, CH2] in every DC cluster                       (16 sc plus 16 spaces)

7) 3DC (no more clusters) in every chain space ( 66 )

8) [SC in between the 3 DC's, CH3]                   (16sc plus 16 spaces)

9) Work into chain space:  [2DC, CH1, 2DC] 16 x

10) [DC in SC of round 8, CH1, SC in chain space of row 9, CH1] 16 x

11) [2DC cluster in every chain space] 32x         (32 DC clusters)

12) [SC in chain space, CH2] 32x                        (32 SC plus 32 chain spaces)

13) [3SC in chain space, SC] 32x                         (128 SC)

Row 13 was my final round. If you have not reached the end of your stool seat yet, you can continue with a [SC, skip3, CH4] and then add clusters in row 15 again.... but that's just a suggestion.

In your final round you should use SC's to make a solid edge to fold your crochet work around your stool.

Keep using SC's around as long as you need to fold your work nicely around the edge.

In your final round, add an elastic band inside your SC's. To do this, SC over the elastic band, that way it disappears inside the last round. Use an oversized piece.

Finish off.

Place your crochet work on the stool, tilt the stool up-side-down, pull the elastic band tight and close with a knot. 

Your home -made flower power stool is finished! I'd love to see yours if you finished one.

If you do not crochet but like one yourself, just let me know.

Royale Squares & Stripes wrap

I fell in love with this yarn instantly.

Not a clue what I would make with it but I just had to have it.

Since the coldest period of winter in Eastern Europe seems to be over, I decided to create a piece of "crochet-art" which can be used in this in-between period. A warm wrap to use during colder evenings.

I have written down the pattern for you. 

It is a very easy pattern, I hope you enjoy it!

To add to your Ravelry que, click the ravelry image

Stitches & terms used:

SC: single crochet

DC: double crochet

CH: chain

Yarn used:

Wibra Fenna Yarn

Suggested needle size: 4 - 4,5 mm ( I used a 4.5 mm hook)

100% acrylic

Use any yarn you like plus hook as suggested. 

Pattern:

The width of your wrap depends on the yarn you use incombination with the length of your base chain. Your base exists out of a multiple of 3 + 3.

With my yarn I made a base chain of 84 chains.

1) DC in 3rd chain from hook, DC back over your base chain, turn (82 DC)

2) Chainless starting DC, CH2, skip 2 stitches, DC, [CH2, skip 2, DC] repeat between brackets to end, turn

3) repeat row 2

4) Chainless starting DC, DC in every stitch to end, turn

5) repeat row 4

Graphic chart of pattern

The pattern is repeating itself. In the graphic you can see how it repeats. 

Keep repeating row 2 twice, followed by row 4 twice.

You last row should be one row of DC's. Just like you started.

Finishing:

When you've made your final DC, turn and SC around the complete border of the wrap.

In every corner you place a SC, CH2, SC, this way you get nice square corners.

Your final round along the borders should be:

SC along the long sides of your wrap             

[SC, CH2, skip1] along the short sides (picture)

[SC, CH2, skip1]

Finish off.

Before you add your tassels, you might want to block your shawl / wrap.
It really makes a nicer result. I usually pin large items down on the carpet and spray it with water. It usually dries in one night.

Now you can add tassels through the CH2 spaces along your short boders if you like.


Enjoy!

Sally - the unicorn

I stumbled on this really really really cute pattern.... 

(it wasn't hard to miss actually since it was spread on the web like a virus)

And like I said earlier.... I had some really busy days at work and it it nice to get your mind thinking about something cute, pink and fluffy at such times.

The best reward for making these toys is the happiness you receive afterwards. The only thing I got confused about was the name my daughter gave the unicorn.... I was thinking "Pegasus", but she immerdiately said: "Sally!!" So Sally was born.

At first I made all the separate parts. This pattern uses quite a large hook and matching yarn. I did not size down the hook as that is what I usually do when I make amigurumi's. So keep in mind, if you want a softy without seeing openings in the structure.
I advice you to use smaller hook with your yarn, size down 0,5 to 1 mm.

 I used several colours for the tail and manes, the fun thing about this project is that you can take any colouring you like to create the unicorn from your imagination. I was inspired by the original design.

 For the horn I used an extra silver thread to give it a magical look.

For the tail I made strings of 34 chains, HDC in 3rd chain from the hook, mix 3 HDC and 4 HDC in every CH. The pattern will explain how to attach them.

If you like this pattern, it is designed by 1dogwoof, you can find the pattern through the link.

Have a lovely day!
Marion.

Loving Black & White

Just a nice pattern with some tips on crochet techniques

Stitches & terms used: 

YO: Yarn over
SC: Single crochet
DC: Double crochet
SLST: Slip stitch
CH: Chain

FPdc: Front post double crochet:

YO, insert hook into space between the post of the current and next DC in the row below, bring the hook through the nest space, going behind the the post, YO, pull hook through the spaces (3 loops on hook), YO, pull yarn through first two loops on hook, YO, pull through last two loops. done


RevSC: Reverse single crochet

Reverse Single Crochet

Pattern

1) Double Crochet chainless foundation chain of 90 DC's (instructions can be found over HERE)

2) CH2, FPdc around, SL ST to 1st DC (skip the Ch2 to SlSt in 1st DC)

3) In this row you start with the heart pattern. Repeat row 2 BUT, attach white yarn in the 46th stitch.

changing colour in a DC, do your DC as normal but your last YO should be with your new colour so the last loop you pull through is the nw colour.

Start the heart pattern according to this diagram, you start at the bottom. Every box is a stitch.

So in row 3 you switch back to black immediately.

4) Use the same technique as used in row 3 but follow the heart pattern to see where you change colours.

5 / 14) Continue untill you have all rows with the heart pattern

15 + 16) Only use black, repeat row 2

17) CH1, SC around, SlSt in 1st SC

18) RevSC around, finish off


Attatch yarn to the other side

19) CH1, SC around, SlSt in 1st SC

20) RevSC around, finish off

I also made matching Bootcuffs.

I made these, based on the brooklyn boot cuffs pattern by CrochetDreamz.

Have fun!

Slouchy Flip-it Beanie

A slouchy beanie made with a reasonably thin yarn. This makes the texture come out nicely.
It also creates a slightly less thicker hat than your typical winter hats. But by using a nice warm yarn, containing wool, you will still have a hat that is warm enough.

Click on Ravelry image to add to your que

Yarn used: 225 m. Baby Wool Light colour Black from www.haakselswolwinkel.nl
Gauge: 18 stitches and 26 rows on 10 cm x 10 cm (4' x 4')
Hook used: G - 4 mm
Size made: Adult

Stitches / terms used:
The pattern is written in US crochet terms.
SC = single crochet
ESC = extended single crochet
ST = stitch
CH = chain
YO = yarn over

Extended Single Crochet:
Insert your hook into next st, pull up loop, YO,
pull up through first loop on hook, YO again,
pull through the remaining 2 loops on hook.

ESC increase: 
2 ESC in same ST

ESC decrease:
Insert hook in next ST, pull up loop, insert hook in next ST,

pull up another loop (3 loops on hook), YO,
pull through first 2 loops on hook, YO, pull through last loop.

If you want your hat to fit on a smaller hat then stop increasing
sooner than pattern. If you are using a yarn with
the same thickness I would suggest:

Male: follow pattern
Female: stop after round 15, pick up pattern from round 17
Child: stop after round 11 (or 13), continue at round 17
These are only suggestions! Please adjust according to your own liking.


Pattern

Start with a magic ring, (I prefer a Double Magic Ring, it is a bit more firm)
Every round that starts with a CH1, start your first SC in the same ST.

1) 10 SC in Magic Ring, SL ST to 1st SC (10)

2) CH1, increase in every SC, SC into your SL ST of round 1  (21)

3) CH1, SC around, SL ST to first ST (21)

4) CH1, [2 SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (28)

5) CH1, [3SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (35)

6) CH1, [4SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (42)

7) CH1, [5SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (49)

8) CH1, [6SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (56)

9) CH1, SC around, SL ST to 1st ST (56)

10) CH1, [7SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (63)

11) CH1, SC around, SL ST to 1st ST (63)

12) CH1, [8SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (70)

13) CH1, SC around, SL ST to 1st ST  (70)

14) CH1, [9SC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st SC (77)

15) CH1, SC around, SL ST to 1st ST (77)

16) CH1, [10ESC, increase] around, SL ST to 1st ST (84)

17/26) CH1, ESC around, SL ST to 1st ST (84)

27) In this round you should make 4 ESC decreases. Even them out. (see pic.1)
       CH1, ESC around including 4 ESC decreases, SL ST to 1st ST (80)

Pic. 1

28) Repeat row 27 (76)

29) CH1, ESC around, SL ST to 1st ST (76)

30) CH1, In this round you should make 2 ESC decreases. Even them out. (see pic. 2)

       CH1, ESC around including 2 ESC decreases, SL ST to 1st ST (74)

Pic. 2

31) Repeat row 27 (70)

32) CH1, ESC around, SL ST to 1st ST (70)

Now continue repeating row 32 untill you reached your desired length. 

I continued untill the hat had a length of +/- 30 cm. In total I made 28 rounds of ESC stitches. Last 4 rounds: SC around and finish off, you can of course add any border you prefer.

Now turn your hat inside out! Tadaa

Click on this image to get this yarn

Alpaca deep waves infinity cowl

I made this cowl for my sister in law, who asked me to create her a special cowl, one you don't find on the corner of every street.

So I decided to mix a good quality of Alpaca wool with my pattern Deep Waves Infinity cowl.

At both ends of the cowl I added an extra type of yarn to put some extra detail in it.

If you like this yarn, it comes in great colours! I used the Grey, Cream, Camel.

Click on this image to get this yarn